Dealing With Recoil……Part II……Handguns

The handgun world is vastly different than that of the rifle.   The major difference is their purpose.  The rifle is an OFFensive weapon, and the pistol is a DEfensive weapon.

Yeah....I heard you the first time.....you only bought that new Smith & Wesson or Ruger for "target practice" or "recreational shooting."  And that's ok....I have a Concealed Permit, and understand perfectly.

Handguns are more difficult to shoot accurately than rifles are.  The rifle is "anchored" to you in THREE places (left hand, right hand and shoulder).  The pistol is just "out there" between TWO hands.  Nowhere near as steady.

As with rifles, the more knockdown power you want, the more recoil you're going to deal with.  If you want something small enough to "pack un-noticed" and still be able to defend yourself with, it'll usually be somewhere in the 9mm/38 Special arena (left).  If concealability is NOT a concern, you might opt for something a little bigger (right).

I would make a special point here.....While the little "snubnose" guns are not as accurate at distance as pistols with longer barrels, they are still well-suited for personal defense.  According to the FBI, the average handgun encounter in this country is just 7 yards-----21 feet, about the length of a '60 Cadillac......so, down the hallway to your front door.......a "snub" is fine....if that's what you choose.  Just make sure it's at LEAST 38 caliber.  The idea is to STOP the bad guy before he can return the favor.

I'm told that the new 40's are pretty good....an improvement over the 9mm, and most cops seem to like them, but being the "sentimental old softy" I am, I'd still prefer the old "45".  I mean, if you're gonna drop him.......DROP him!

But whether you're a fan of the automatic.......or the revolver, they're all going to "kick" to some degree, depending on how much caliber you've chosen to defend yourself with.  The two revolvers pictured here are IDENTICAL Smith & Wesson 357 Magnums.....except for the grips.......

One has the original factory checkered wood", and the other is fitted with Pachmyer neoprened rubber.  Care to venture a guess on which one is more comfortable to shoot?

Custom "aftermarket" grips are available for most guns, although your smaller calibered pistols don't have enough recoil to bother with.  If you decide you want something really "healthy" though, rubberized grips are almost a "must"------unless you're a "masochist" or something!  The 41 Magnum on your left, and the stainless 44 Magnum on your right, are "gripped" the way they SHOULD be for a session at the range, or anywhere else.

VERY SERIOUS POINT HERE-------if you are NEW to the pistol world, do NOT start yourself out with a big gun like the 44.  Clint made it look easy in the "Dirty Harry" films, but remember that they shoot BLANKS in the movies.  Actual 44 Magnum recoil can plant the hammer of the gun squarely in your forehead if you don't know what you're doing-----as an airman found out right here in Mountain Home about 20 years ago.....who had NEVER shot anything larger than a 22.

So with that.....let's get into the "main course".........

All handguns are better aimed and controlled using a two-handed hold and a good firm grip....particularly as we go UP in caliber.  But the proper method is not just merely a 2-handed hold.  Using the red point on that white stick as an "arrow", the left hand is used in "retention"-----pulling REARWARD a bit, and pulling the gun back toward you just a touch.  With your right hand thrust forward toward the target, and the left hand "retaining" it a bit, the sights will steady up quickly, and you'll also give yourself a better hold on the "stiffer"-kicking guns.  It's one of the vital steps of what is known as the "Weaver stance."  It works really well.  Try it the first or next time you go out to shoot.

The further "into" the gun you can get your hand, the easier it is to control.  Because of their design, the auto-pistols are a little easier to control than the revolvers..........plus......the actuating springs  help damping recoil during shot-to-shot cycling.

With the "wheelgun", you can't get your hand as far under it, because of this"hump" in the frame, called the "recoil shoulder."  Like the bolt-action rifles, the revolver uses no "gas" to operate anything else, so you get more powder driving that bullet and a little more "snap" to go with it.

But here is the MAIN "TRICK" to it all...............

"ALIGNMENT".............this is WRONG.....and so is THIS!  Where that "red dot" is, is where you're going to feel that "kick".......and some side-twist into your wrist.

THIS is what you want!  I used that "stick" to show the proper alignment of the gun from barrel tip to forearm.  Compare that "red dot" photo to this one........................

In our "red dot" shot, the wrist is taking the bulk of the recoil.  In the right hand photo, the arm is STRAIGHT behind the gun.  The recoil will be directed in a "straight line" (THROUGH the wrist----not INTO it),  right on up through the forearm toward the shoulder, and will be considerably more comfortable by the time it gets there!  It's also a lot more accurate.

.................wrong....................                  .................right.......................

And when you're out there pounding away with a big magnum, it's important that YOU control the recoil..............not the other way around.