Think outside the mojito - new uses for mint

Most people in the U.S. are familiar with mint as a flavoring in candies, chewing gum, ice cream, the occasional cocktail, maybe a tea, and as a particularly dated sauce for lamb.

But elsewhere in the world, mint is a key - and refreshing - ingredient in numerous savory recipes.

In Thailand, whole mint leaves add a pleasantly bracing flavor to spring rolls. In Vietnam, they are folded into meaty lettuce wraps. In Italy, mint is stirred into a pasta sauce and pureed for a variation on pesto. And in India and Pakistan, it spikes a spicy chutney that is as ubiquitous on restaurant tables as ketchup is in American diners.

Like any good weed, mint adapts well to its environment (mints are, after all, a highly invasive plant). This produces countless varieties that can vary widely in aroma and flavor. Some even smell and taste of chocolate and pineapple.

Mint can be found growing around the globe, from dry, rocky ridges in the Mediterranean to gardens in Vietnam. The fresh leaf offered most often at American grocers is spearmint.

"Most people use it not only for its flavor, but for its health reasons," says Boston chef Ana Sortun, whose cookbook "Spice'' dedicates an entire chapter to savory dishes featuring mint. ``It's a digestive and an antioxidant."

In savory dishes at her restaurant, Oleana, Sortun uses mint the classic Turkish way, which is combined with dill and parsley. "Mint as a fresh herb is best combined with other herbs," she says. "It creates a warm flavor."

Try cutting it in into ribbons to freshen salad recipes. Stir a few chopped teaspoons at the last minute into cooked peas. Add it to a marinade for grilled beef, lamb or trout. Or use it to add depth to a classic tomato sauce.

In this Tuscan pasta, mint invigorates the meatiness of wild mushrooms.

()PENNE WITH MUSHROOMS AND MINT()

Start to finish: 20 minutes

Servings: 4

1 1/2 pounds mixed mushrooms, such as shiitake, bluefoot, oyster, chanterelle and hedgehog

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme

1 pound penne pasta

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint

2 cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (or similar Parmesan cheese)

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil.

While the water heats, remove and discard any mushroom stems. Cut large mushroom caps into halves or quarters; leave smaller ones whole.

In a large, heavy skillet heat the oil over medium-high. A handful at a time, add the mushrooms (just enough to form a single layer in the pan), season lightly with salt and pepper, and saute until they start to brown, about 3 minutes.

Push the browned mushrooms to the side of the pan, then add the next batch and repeat.

Once all of the mushrooms have been browned, add the butter and let it foam, then add the garlic and thyme. Stir well, then remove the skillet from the heat.

When the water boils, cook the pasta until al dente according to package directions. Drain the pasta and immediately toss with the mushrooms. Add the mint and half of the cheese. Toss well, then add the remaining cheese. Adjust the seasonings.

(Recipe from Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox's ``Olives and Oranges,'' Houghton Mifflin, 2008)